The Fleeting Joy of Elderflower Season

For a few weeks in late May and early June, the British countryside is scented with the creamy, muscat sweetness of elderflowers. These frothy white heads appear on hedgerows, woodland edges and forgotten corners, and they are one of the most generous gifts a forager can find. Pick them on a dry, sunny morning and you can turn them into a fragrant cordial, a delicate syrup or a batch of light, golden fritters. The season is short, so make the most of it while it lasts.

Elderflower is a true countryside staple. It has been used for generations in kitchens and farmhouses, not just for its flavour but for its ability to capture the very essence of early summer. The key is to use the flowers fresh, within a few hours of picking, and to treat them gently. Do that, and you will be rewarded with something far finer than anything you can buy.

Know Your Elder Before You Pick

Elder (Sambucus nigra) is a shrub or small tree that grows almost anywhere it can get its roots down. You will find it in hedgerows, along field margins, in damp woodland and on waste ground. The leaves are opposite and pinnate, made up of five to seven oval, serrated leaflets. The flowers grow in flat-topped clusters, or umbels, of tiny creamy-white blooms that carry a heavy, sweet scent. The bark is grey-brown and deeply fissured on older wood.

It is worth taking a moment to be certain of your identification. Elderflowers are sometimes confused with other white umbellifers, but elder has woody stems and distinctive leaves. Cow parsley, for example, has fern-like, feathery leaves and hollow green stems. Rowan flowers are also creamy, but rowan leaves are pinnate with a different shape and the tree has a very different habit. If in doubt, leave it alone. Never pick from busy roadsides or from plants you cannot confidently name.

Picking on a Sunny Morning

The best time to harvest elderflowers is on a dry, sunny morning, after the dew has lifted but before the heat of the day. This is when the fragrance is at its peak and the tiny flowers are fully open. Take a basket or a roomy bag, and a pair of sharp scissors or secateurs. Cut the flower heads with a short length of stalk, leaving plenty behind on the bush.

Insects love elderflowers as much as we do, so give each head a gentle shake as you pick it. This dislodges bees, beetles and the occasional spider without harming them. Try not to wash the flowers unless you really must; if you do, dip them briefly in cold water and pat them dry on a clean tea towel. Excess water dilutes the flavour. Use your harvest within a few hours, or keep it cool in the fridge until you are ready.

• Pick: dry, sunny mornings, fully open heads
• Shake: gently to remove insects
• Leave: at least half the flowers on each bush for wildlife
• Use: fresh, within a few hours, or refrigerate

Elderflower Cordial

Cordial is the classic way to capture elderflower flavour. It keeps for months and makes a refreshing drink diluted with still or sparkling water. This recipe makes about two litres of cordial.

• 20–30 large elderflower heads
• 1.5 kg granulated sugar
• 1.5 litres water
• 2 unwaxed lemons, zest and juice
• 50 g citric acid (available from chemists and home-brew shops)

Bring the water to the boil, add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Take off the heat and allow it to cool until it is just warm. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, citric acid and the elderflower heads, giving them one last shake as you do. Stir well, cover the pan and leave to steep for 24 to 48 hours. Strain through a muslin-lined sieve or a clean cloth, then bottle in sterilised bottles. Dilute one part cordial to five parts water. It will keep in the fridge for several weeks, or you can freeze it in ice-cube trays for later.

Elderflower Fritters

Fritters are a wonderful treat, best eaten straight from the pan while the flowers are still crisp and fragrant. Use whole heads with a sturdy stalk, and trim away any leaves or thick stems.

• 100 g plain flour
• 1 egg
• 150 ml milk or sparkling water
• A pinch of salt
• Sunflower or rapeseed oil for frying
• Caster sugar for dusting

Whisk the flour, egg, milk or sparkling water and salt together to make a smooth batter the consistency of double cream. Heat about a centimetre of oil in a deep frying pan until a drop of batter sizzles immediately. Holding each elderflower head by the stalk, dip it into the batter, allowing the excess to drip off, then lower it gently into the hot oil. Fry for a minute or two on each side until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and dust with caster sugar. Eat immediately, while the batter is light and the flowers still taste of summer.

Foraging with Care and Storing Your Bounty

Elder is a vital plant for wildlife. The flowers feed bees, hoverflies and butterflies, and the later berries are a lifeline for birds such as blackbirds and thrushes. Always leave plenty of heads on each bush, and never strip a tree bare. Pick from clean, quiet places away from exhaust fumes and agricultural sprays. Take only what you need, and leave the rest for the creatures that depend on it.

If you have a glut, there are many ways to preserve it. Cordial freezes beautifully in bottles or ice-cube trays. You can also dry elderflowers in a warm, airy room and store them in jars for winter teas, or make elderflower vinegar by steeping the heads in cider vinegar for a fortnight. A spoonful of elderflower syrup stirred into a glass of chilled water is one of the simple pleasures of the season. And sharing a bottle of homemade cordial with a neighbour is part of the tradition, too. Forage thoughtfully, pick with a light hand, and enjoy the brief, beautiful elderflower weeks while they are here.